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8:00 pm - 10/10/2013

Dazed x Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Stockholm

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In a series of short films shot at the recent Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm, British magazine Dazed & Confused captures the essence of three Swedish designers and their collections. 

During the recent Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm, Dazed came to Sweden to seek out the most interesting designers. They discovered three collections that stood out in the schedule; Back by Ann-Sofie Back, AltewaiSaome, and Erik Bjerkesjo. In three short films, Dazed present each of the designers through interviews and behind the scenes footage, capturing the essence of the designer and their collection.

Re-working elements from her previous mainline collections, Ann-Sofie Back had created a spontaneous and rebellious show for her Back line. Striving for  a ‘senile chic’ look, she paired sportswear inspired elastic waistbands with elegant draping, raw denim, and leather skirts. Balancing somewhere between the beautiful and the ugly, Ann-Sofie Back presents a fashion that is innovative, interesting, and edgy, yet highly wearable.

With a background in Italy’s most prestigious ateliers, Swedish designers Natalia Altewai and Randa Saome launched their brand AltewaiSaome in 2009. With a sharply tailored, structural aesthetics, they present an exciting and eclectic mix of Scandinavian simplicity and international high fashion. For SS14 they showed a sophisticated and feminine collection, with sleek silhouettes in a muted palette of black, white, and navy.

– This collection is more mature, the two designers explain to Dazed. We tried to show a stronger woman, that is sexy, elegant, and very confident.

Hailing from the small Swedish island of Gotland, Erik Bjerkesjo earned his master’s degree in Advanced Footwear Design at the well-reputed Italian fashion school Polimoda. He began his career by creating a line of exquisite and elegant shoes, entirely made by hand together with Tuscan craftsmen. Earlier this year he was selected as the winner of Pitti Immagine Uomo’s Who Is On Next, and in January he showed his first full menswear collection at Pittie Uomo. In August he made his second debut at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Stockholm, showing his much celebrated collection for SS14. Erik Bjerkesjo’s talent lies in his ability to combine elegant and innovative design with a postmodern craftsmanship and a close attention to details.

– If you have new ideas and people are inspired by it, then you stay alive a little bit longer, Erik says in the Dazed video.

Read Dazed’s own thoughts on the shows, and see more of their fashion week videos here.

Photo by Pauline Suzor and videos by Dazed & Confused

By Sonja Nettelbladt

11:00 am - 04/10/2013

PFW DAY IX/RECAP

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On Wednesday, Paris Fashion Week came to a close with Marc Jacob’s spectacular farewell to Louis Vuitton, Miuccia Prada’s rebellious reinvention of the classic for Miu Miu, and Hermè’s expedition into the wild.  

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A rebellious reinvention of the clichés and classics of the feminine was what defined Miuccia Prada’s spring collection for Miu Miu. “Anything that is classic, a repeat in history, a genre of woman or clothes that always comes about,” she is quoted by Style.com as saying in regards to her show. “Classics, classics of trash, classics of chic, classics of the good girl, classics of the bad girl.” The collection featured classic pieces such as A-lined sixties coats, eighties balloon dresses, short vinyl skirts, brightly coloured tights, and ladylike handbags, all rendered with Miuccia Prada’s unmistakable sense for the exciting and ugly-cute.

Hermes

There was a sense of escapism to Christophe Lemaire’s Hermès show, a longing for adventures and expeditions into the wild. With high waisted, belted skirts, creased trousers, wrapped shirts, and long, sweeping dresses, all casual, yet clear-cut, the designer pointed out that the Hermès woman is a traveler and an adventuress.The palette ranged from black, bottle green, and petrol blue, to mustard yellow, orange, and various of beige, nude, and white hues. The jungle theme was also present in the bold floral prints, inspired by the French naïve artist Henri Rousseau.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt 

8:00 pm - 03/10/2013

PFW DAY VIII/RECAP

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The eighth day of Paris Fashion week kicked off with Karl Lagerfeld’s vibrant Chanel show, and continued with shows by Valentino, Alexander McQueen, and Paul & Jones. Here are some of the highlights. 

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The extravagant spring show that Karl Lagerfeld put on for Chanel was all about the arts. The Grand Palais, where the show was held, had been turned into something of an art exhibition, filled with kitschy Chanel artworks. Models were sent down the runway dressed in colour swatch prints, and carrying paint brushes and portfolios. Even the soundtrack made a tongue-in-cheek comment to the arts, including Jay Z’s newly released Picasso Baby. Along with the colour swatch prints, the collection featured iconic Chanel pieces such as the tweed suit, the little black dress, and the 2.55 bag, reworked with new exciting cuts, bright colours, and bold patterns. Matching white knee socks, blown up pearl necklaces, and playfully embellished backpacks further enhanced the collection’s youthful edge, with the boldly applied make up as the finishing touch.

Valentino

With inspiration from the Italian director Pier Paolo Pasolini’s film version of the classic opera Medea, with Maria Callas as the name part, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli showed a soberly dramatic and extravagant spring collection for Valentino. Rendered with the two designers’ usual sense for sleek silhouettes and sharp tailoring, the collection showed a mishmash of exquisite embroideries, fringed suede, and silvery patchworks.

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A Summer in Paris was the name of Sophie Albou-Mechaly’s spring collection for Paul & Jones. Light and airy, the collection was all about casual cuts, fluid materials, and unconstructed silhouettes. The palette was a soothing mix of white, light blue, dusty pink, and leafy green, sparkled up by splashes of glittery gold. With wide silk trousers, striped shirts, Liberty printed blouses, and long sweeping skirts, the collection was just as casually timeless as the name suggests.

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With golden helmets and metal harnesses, feather capes and skirts, tribal patterns, and exquisite beadwork, Sarah Burton’s spring collection for Alexander McQueen gave the impression of a modern Amazon warrior. Ruffled dresses, puffy, multicoloured skirts, and elaborately beaded tops were matched with strapped leather bras, metal harnesses, choker necklaces, and shiny metal helmets. Eclectic and conceptual, the show pointed out an exciting new direction for the late Alexander McQueen’s fashion house.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

2:00 pm - 03/10/2013

Louis Vuitton SS14/PFW

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The spectacular show that Marc Jacobs put on for Louis Vuitton yesterday was to be his last. After months of rumours and speculations, the designer confirmed that he will leave the house where he’s been working for the last sixteen years, to concentrate on a stock exchange flotation of his own brand. A celebration, or maybe a commemoration, of his work for the brand, the sensational show was presented entirely in black. Also the staging featured callbacks to some of his most memorable shows for Louis Vuitton, including the elevators, the escalators, the carousel, the fountain, and the hotel corridors from last season. Marc Jacobs dedicated his show to the many women who’ve influenced him during his time in Paris, including designer muses such as Coco Chanel, Rei Kawakubo, Miuccia Prada, and Vivienne Westwood, as well as “to the showgirl in all of us”.

The show began with model Edie Campbell walking down the runway wearing nothing but panties, handcuffs, and chains, with the Louis Vuitton logo scrawled all over her body, a look that pretty much set the tone for the rest of the collection. Extravagant, sexy, and sparkling, with a youthful, punky edge, the collection featured elegant skirts, dresses, and suits, as well as denims, biker jackets, and daring see through tops and tights, all elaborately embellished with feathers, beads, crystals, and chains. Matched with dramatic Stephen Jones-designed headpieces of ostrich plumes, the show made a spectacular farewell.

It’s not yet decided who will replace Marc Jacobs at Luis Vuitton, but rumour has it that it might be the former Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquiere.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

8:00 pm - 02/10/2013

PFW DAY VII/RECAP

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Stella McCartney, Saint Laurent, and Giambattista Valli were some of brands who showed during the seventh day of Paris Fashion Week. Here are some of the highlights. 

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”An accent on understated seduction” was what Stella McCartney went for with her SS14 collection. And surely there was a sense of understatement to the collection’s slouchy silhouettes, fluid materials, and sober monochrome palette, but it also carried Stella McCartney’s usual air of effortless elegance. Sleek suits, flowy trousers, and neat v-neck lined tops were some of the key looks, rendered in a neutral palette of nudes, dusty pink, marine, and rusty red, punctuated by metal croco structured fabrics and small floral prints. The seduction came with a series of wonderfully sheer lace slip dresses that ended the show.

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With inspiration from filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini and Arte Poevra artist Alighiero Boetti, Giambattista Valli showed a sober, yet highly artistic collection for SS14. With simple silhouettes and largely monochrome looks, the real excitement was to be found in the juxtaposition of materials, where sheer chiffon and embroidered organza were contrasted with fluffy fur, structured silk, and heavy jacquard.

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During the recent fashion week in Milan, Fausto Puglisi showed his first runway show for his signature label, where, as he himself described it, “Carolina Herrera met Axl Rose”. The same juxtaposition could be seen in his spring collection for Emanuel Ungaro, where ladylike pieces were given a youthful and fierce edge. A mishmash of patchworks, ruffles, polka dots, stripes, slits, and straps, the collection was both playful and seductive, even though the best looks were the simplest ones; a pair of sleek, black trousers, lined with a single sculpted ruffle, matched with a simple top and a tailored suit jacket, or a black and green dotted shirt tucked into a pair of leather shorts.

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Elie Saab’s spring show was all about flowers. Dresses and blouses were decorated with flower appliqués, sheer lace was came with subtle floral patterns, and multicoloured floral prints punctuated the otherwise monochrome palette. Even the colours were taken from the garden, with camellia white, rosy pink, bright bougainvillea, and leafy green as the most striking examples.

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There were a lot of references to the 80s in Heidi Slimane’s SS14 collection for Saint Laurent, from the bold mismatched prints and puffy dresses to the short leather skirts and slouchy socks tucked into pointy pumps. With sharply tailored suit and tie looks, edgy leather pieces, and exquisitely ruffled skirts and dresses, the collection payed homage to androgynous 80s icons such as David Bowie and Madonna, as well as to Yves Saint Laurent himself.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

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