There is undeniably something very intriguing about the woman Frida Giannini had in mind for Gucci f/w 2012. According to a review on style.com Giannini was inspired by “nineteenth century decadents” which showed in her use of materials; dark feathers, leather, crocodile, tulle and crushed velvet created a dramatic, yet sophisticated, impression. The colour palette may have been utterly traditional for fall – black and dark shades of green, plum and burgundy – but came off interesting when combined with the choice of make up and hair, that had a quite intellectual feel to it.
It wouldn’t be an understatement suggesting that Gucci is mainly about excessive luxury, but for this season I feel like if something happened to the usually so carefree and extravagant Gucci woman. There is this new tone of melancholy, almost sorrow, that adds something to her appearance that makes me want to get to know her better, to figure her out. The fact that the inspiration from this collection was taken from the Decadent Movement and also the Dark Romanticism subgenre is very obivous, but the inspiration was luckily not too literally interpreted.
I think it’s fair to say that this is Giannini’s best collection yet, not only because it’s slightly unexpected and because the garments are – in my opinion – really beautiful, but because she managed to make the Gucci woman appear almost haunting, which hasn’t exactly been the case the last couple of seasons. If this collection would be a perfume, its top note would be the sickly sweet scent of flagging, almost rottening flowers, like the floral prints that were used in the collection.
See more from the runway show here