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2:36 pm - 03/03/2012

Maison Martin Margiela F/W 2012

See the complete collection on Vogue.com.

The reaction to Maison Martin Margiela’s show yesterday among the truthful fans was the lack of conptual ideas. Has Margiela become commercialised? Judging from the front, there were plain suits, models even carried briefcases. When looking closer however, the ideas became visible, evolving as the show continued. Ideas of deconstruction and incognito, what signifies that house’s aestethics basically. Starting with a pantsuit that were longer in the back, ending with messy yet brilliantly layered looks that the Margiela team has done the last couple of seasons. Not that deconstruction is something rare these days – rather the contrary – but it is how they do it that signifies the brand’s aestethics. It’s raw, it’s put together unflattering and wrong, but still so right and attractive. The looks are more polished (if that’s what commercializing means) than when Mr. Margiela was still in the house, but the two words of value were still very present.

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