KENZO SS14/PFW

13/09/30 - 08:00

Kenzo

Kenzo’s spring show was all about water, from the shapes and prints of the garments to the set design to the subtle political commentary. With the collection, designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon wanted to address the issue of overfishing. As natives of California, they both grew up with the ocean as their neighbour, and besides expressing their concerns for the it, they also wanted the collection to render the ocean’s beauty. Visible in everything from the wavy hems and the glistening fluid materials to the fish prints and embroideries and the statement tee saying No Fish, No Nothing, the theme was further enhanced by the venue’s set design. For a venue, they had chosen Luc Besson’s film studio La Cité du Cinéma, where a waterfall was flowing the entire duration of the show, and drums sprayed water to the beat of the music. Combined with sharp tailoring and geometrical cuts, the show turned out both smart and cheeky. See a video from the show over at Style.com.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

PFW DAY V/RECAP

13/09/29 - 01:00

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The fifth day of Paris Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Acne, Viktor & Rolf, and Commes des Garçons. Here are some of the highlights. 

HA

Not unlike Lanvin, Haider Ackermann had combined sleek elegance with a youthful edge and lots of punk attitude. Pleated lamé skirts were matched with daring see through tops and fluid suit jackets, while black python shorts came with long billowing tails of lace. The model’s messy hairdos and dramatic black make up added to the show’s punk edge.

Acne

There was an air of effortless elegance and fresh functionality to Acne’s new spring collection. The straight cuts and soft silhouettes made everything look casual and comfortable, while the artistic details and sharp tailoring brought a dressed and sophisticated touch to it. Crisp cropped pants and fluid shorts were matched with well-cut suit jackets and long, loosely fitted shirt dresses, finished off with a slouchy knitted hat and sporty platform sandals. Mostly rendered in black, white, and blue, the collection was punctuated with splashes of bright red and yellow, as well as a few abstract multicoloured prints.

VR

Viktor & Rolf were not the only ones who had looked to the street and schoolyards for inspiration this season, yet few have rendered it with the same finesse. Classic school uniform pieces such as pleated skirts, neat suit jackets, and pullover vests were updated with studs, safety pins, emblems, and mesh. A sleek silk top was decorated with a bright blue graffiti print, while another one was embellished with safety pins in neat grids, and a third came fully covered with sharp silver studs. Elegantly matched with a knee-length skirts, ladylike handbags, and black slip in pumps, the collection was a perfect cross between posh and punk.

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Expressive and evocative, Commes des Garçons’ show was not so much a fashion show as it was an art performance. Though they are worn on the body, Rei Kawakubo’s mesmerizing creations have more in common with sculptures than with garments.  Yet, it is precisely the fact that she creates fashion and not art that makes her work so intriguing. Dark and menacing, yet playful and imaginative, the Commes des Garçons spring show was like stepping into a nightmarish wonderland. The dramatic shapes and surreal silhouettes in tandem with the model’s smeared dark lipstick and snake-like head dresses made a collection that was as seductive as it was startling.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

PFW DAY IIII/RECAP

13/09/28 - 01:00

MMM

The fourth day of Paris Fashion Week saw amongst others the fifteenth anniversary show of A.F. Vandevorst. Here are some of the highlights.

Chalayan

Sleek and summery, Chalayan’s spring show was all about airy shapes and artistic details. Layered, slit, panelled, and draped, the silhouettes were all light and fresh, enhanced by the sheer organza and fluid silk. Brightly coloured scales, bold stripes and blurred abstract prints gave the show a playful edge, while the sleek and sober evening dresses added to the sophisticated sobriety. Wide-brimmed transparent sun hats, either worn on the head or stuck onto wooden sticks, added the finishing touch.

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Eclectic and evocative, Maison Martin Margiela’s spring show was a mix of sharply tailored masculine cuts and richly embellished knick-knacks. A pink sequined bustier matched with under a well-cut black topcoat, a sheer chiffon top layered over a sleeveless pinstripe suit jacket, and a mannish beige trench coat was worn over an exquisitely beaded multicoloured top. Cutaway shoulders, cropped tops, and loose sleeves added to the deconstructed silhouettes that are characteristic for Margiela’s design.

AF

To celebrate the fifteenth anniversary of their label A.F. Vandevorst, An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx took a trip down memory lane, reworking looks from their archives. The silhouettes were all layered, wrapped, or draped, embellished with studs, knots, fringes, and heavy metallic necklaces. Long hooded caftans, gleaming scarves, and intriguing golden headdresses gave the collection an air of oriental mystique, enhanced by the dusts of sand that were sprinkled over the model’s outfits and hairdos.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

Rick Owens SS14/PFW

13/09/28 - 10:00

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Vibrant with life and movement, Rick Owens’ spring show might well have been the most startling thing Paris will see this year. Renouncing everything about the traditional fashion show, Rick Owens presented his collection through a stepping performance. Evolved in African-American colleges, stepping is a hybrid of step dancing, cheerleading, and military drill. Together with choreographers Lauretta Malloy Noble and her daughter LeeAnet, Rick Owens teamed up with forty dancers from four different stepping teams to produce a customized and spectacularly synchronized performance. The clothing was a sophisticated and sharp take on extreme sportswear, were the exquisite draping and structured shapes were enhanced by the explosive and synchronized movements of the dancers. Truly astounding, the show was an injection of energy to the fashion world in general, and Paris Fashion Week in particular.

See some of the looks from Rick Owen’s SS14 collection below, and head over to Style.com to watch a video from the show.

 

PFW DAY III/RECAP

13/09/27 - 08:00

Balenciaga

The third day of Paris Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Balenciaga, Carven, Ann Demeulemeester, and Lanvin. Here are some of the highlights. 

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With his new spring collection for Balenciaga, Alexander Wang once again showed himself a worthy successor to Nicolas Ghesquiere. The sharp cuts, sculptural shapes and innovative materials gave it an air of the future, while the exquisite tailoring and elegant details rather reminded of traditional couture. The bare midriffs and shiny moulded leather gave the collection a sporty edge, while cutaway shoulders, sheer organza, and romantic ruffles added a soft feminine touch.

Carven

Drawing inspiration from the girls he went to highschool with back in the nineties, Carven’s Guillaume Henry showed a sweet, yet savvy new spring collection, juxtaposing over dimensioned and elongated denim jackets, multicoloured army prints, and bare midriffs with pastelle twinsets, romantic flower appliqués, and pleated checked skirt. More Clueless than grunge, so to say.

AD

For SS14, Ann Demeulemeester presented a fresh take on her own deconstructive legacy. A mishmash of patterns and prints, the looks were wrapped, folded, draped, and layered the looks with Ann Demeulemeester’s usual eye for sharp silhouettes and creative cuts. Finished with corset-like belts and enormous, softly sculpted hats, it was an intriguing and innovative collection, rendered with sheer finesse.

Lanvin

Glam rock seems to be what Alber Elbaz went for with his new spring collection for Lanvin. With the exception of a few sober looks in the middle, everything shimmered and sparkled, from a simple black evening dress and a pleated emerald skirt to a flowy golden suit and a bronze overall. Matched with messy layered hair and bold metal jewelleries, even the sweetest ruffled dress was oozing with punchy glam rock attitude.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

 

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