The New York based accessory designer Zana Bayne continued for autumn/winter 2013 to collaborate with Prabal Gurung. Her typical design of leather harnesses were for the first time styled with fur in white, gray and red for a cozy and soft look in contrast to the otherwise brutal look of leather. Besides collars, she presented a variety of different belts, harnesses, and possibly shoe straps, although the latter is unconfirmed, it sure looks like her design.
Three days of a continuous stream line of impressions have passed, leaving one quite ambiguous towards how to conclude this season of Mercedes Benz fashion week autumn/winter 2013 in Stockholm. As of today, we can at laeast establish the difficulty of defining what Swedish fashion really is, especially when three of the brands with essential value to the Swedish industry were missing from the schedule, Filippa K, Hope and Rodebjer. Expectations were instead transferred even more so onto smaller brands, especially AltewaiSaome who season after season continues to challenge current ideas with extremely modern methods. What make their design so familiar and easy to like while at the same time feeling fresh, is the clutter of diverging influences that seem to appear in the clothing, it is sportswear, minimalism, Italian craftsmanship and even avant garde at times. It was the silhouette in particular and the subtle detailing that disguished the collection from the lot. A few other happy surprises of the week were the veterans of Carin Wester and Whyred, that for the past few years have failed to live of to the high expectations that follows. Both were delivering collections with a sense of revival to it in terms of silhouette and cut with a much more refined and interesting look.
What raised the question of why designers have such a vast need for explicit branding, was the frequent use logotypes in the shows, seen at The Local Firm, BACK, Hernández Cornet and even in the finale in the show by glamour queen of Ida Sjöstedt. A less disturbing detail yet conspicuous that appeared at least as recurrently were all those high tech garments in shiny materials at Hernández Cornet, Whyred, Cheap Monday and Diana Orving. Of which the latter, among several live gigs as competition, were playing the most suitable music for the collection.It started slow and somewhat drowsy to get more intensified and exciting as it proceeded, but always maintaining a pretty even and dull level. Minor tones to describe the mood of the week in its entirety.
And, don’t miss out the shows Fashion Networks have been covering for Style.com.
Top from left: Cheap Monday, Whyred, Hernández Cornet
Bottom from left: BACK, Hernández Cornet, The Local Firm
By Josefin Arestav
This collection does not feel revolutionary or surprising in any sense, but Phoebe Philo has managed to put a strong signature to the collection. It oozez Celine, and that is a good thing. She has played with shapes and over exaggerated the classic female silhuettes into something more modern. Same thing goes for the classic fall colours that are used, the materials make them more modern. Among the favourite pieces are the super hugh belts, the classic white shirt and the slouchy pants.
By Simone Brenemark Molvidson
Hey Saurabh, what’s up? What’s on your mind right now?
My mind is 100% focused on delivery. My mantra during this whole process has been “Failure is not an option”. I´m not allowing myself to fail.
What are you up to right now?
Picking tics from my dog and planning the party. For the moment I´m finalizing the guest-list. My best list ever.
How did you get involved with Swergie?
My friend Konrad Bergström from Zound Industries contacted me and gave me his vision. I could´t say no. I have been wanting to have a party during Fashion Week for years. Konrad made it happen.
What do you personally think makes you an important part of the Swergie team?
Konrad wanted a dream team. I´m happy and very proud to be one of the team members. My role is to make sure that we have the right guests and that everything concerning the total experience falls in place. I think Konrad chose me because I never leave anything
What is the most difficult aspect of a party of this size?
I have never done anything this big before so everything considering this project is a challenge. If I have to point out anything it would be choosing the right crowd. A well balanced crowd is key to success.
What do you most look forward to tonight?
Me standing alone at Cirkus at 04.00 hopefully feeling satisfied. I’ve done my very best to make this a night to remember.
What are you wearing tonight?
Who are you most excited to have as a guest at Swergie?
Hard to pick one. I´m glad that all my closest friends can join us tonight.
Your reputation in Stockholm is flawless, but what makes a great party?
There are so many things that are important. Without getting into details the following things are important to me:
- nice, eclectic crowd. I want my guests to see other faces than they always see. A good crowd in my eyes has a wide variety of ages and comes from different backgrounds and has different jobs.
- nice music. With an eclectic crowd you need to pick your music very carefully to be able to please them all.
- logistics. Everything from how the guests are taken care of when they arrive to how they get served in the bars and so on are crucial elements.
- a wow-factor. All parties needs a wow-factor. Be there to take part of it.
What’s your soundtrack at the moment?
Al Green and Ame.
Pictures by Ivan Nunez