PFW DAY III/RECAP

13/09/27 - 08:00 - In: Paris

Balenciaga

The third day of Paris Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Balenciaga, Carven, Ann Demeulemeester, and Lanvin. Here are some of the highlights. 

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With his new spring collection for Balenciaga, Alexander Wang once again showed himself a worthy successor to Nicolas Ghesquiere. The sharp cuts, sculptural shapes and innovative materials gave it an air of the future, while the exquisite tailoring and elegant details rather reminded of traditional couture. The bare midriffs and shiny moulded leather gave the collection a sporty edge, while cutaway shoulders, sheer organza, and romantic ruffles added a soft feminine touch.

Carven

Drawing inspiration from the girls he went to highschool with back in the nineties, Carven’s Guillaume Henry showed a sweet, yet savvy new spring collection, juxtaposing over dimensioned and elongated denim jackets, multicoloured army prints, and bare midriffs with pastelle twinsets, romantic flower appliqués, and pleated checked skirt. More Clueless than grunge, so to say.

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For SS14, Ann Demeulemeester presented a fresh take on her own deconstructive legacy. A mishmash of patterns and prints, the looks were wrapped, folded, draped, and layered the looks with Ann Demeulemeester’s usual eye for sharp silhouettes and creative cuts. Finished with corset-like belts and enormous, softly sculpted hats, it was an intriguing and innovative collection, rendered with sheer finesse.

Lanvin

Glam rock seems to be what Alber Elbaz went for with his new spring collection for Lanvin. With the exception of a few sober looks in the middle, everything shimmered and sparkled, from a simple black evening dress and a pleated emerald skirt to a flowy golden suit and a bronze overall. Matched with messy layered hair and bold metal jewelleries, even the sweetest ruffled dress was oozing with punchy glam rock attitude.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

 

PFW DAY II/RECAP

13/09/26 - 08:00 - In: Paris

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The second day of Paris Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Damir Doma, Dries van Noten, and Rochas. These are some of the highlights. 

Damir

Staying true to his sharp silhouettes and minimalistic aesthetics, Damir Doma showed a crisp and clear-cut collection for SS14, interspersed with splashes of bright colours and playful laser-cut polka dot prints. Lustrous olive green, bright orange, and sunny yellow warmed up the subdued palette, while asymmetric shapes, stripes, and the just mentioned dots gave the collection a playful edge.

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Dries van Noten’s spring show was an eclectic mix of patterns, shapes, materials, and decorations. Dramatic draping, tassels, ruffles, embroideries, and beads were intertwined with simple, sleek silhouettes and rough textures, such as raw cotton, poplin, linen, and calico. A yellow pleated skirt, decorated with a black barbed wire print, was matched with a delicately embroidered top, while a dramatic ruffled skirt in black, gold, and beige was combined with a simple grey melange sweater. Set in a spacious, golden venue, the show was a marvel of effortless extravagance.

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With their classic cuts, pastel palette, and fluorescent materials, Rochas’ spring show was nothing but a fusion between the fifties and the future. The looks were all sheer and romantic, with brocade coats, long wide skirts, and airy dresses, embellished with ruffles, pleats and Swarovski crystals. Wanting to capture the ”translucent qualities of glass, frost, and crystals”, Rochas’ head designer Marco Zanini used materials all luminous and glistening, which together with the pastelle hues made the collection somewhat futuristic and fluorescent. The futuristic feeling also came through in the models slim cat-eye sunglasses, as if taken from Matrix, and their odd sling back shoes, embellished with brightly coloured ostrich plumes.

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Also Gareth Pugh’s spring show conveyed an air of the future. The enormous pink feather headpiece opening the show was a recurring element throughout the collection, as was the mermaid skirts, the exaggerated round shoulders, and the sculptural, shiny corsets. The materials were all patent leather and gleaming plastics, in silver, white, black, and turquoise, all adding to the futuristic feel.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

 

Christophe Lemaire SS14/PFW

13/09/25 - 09:00 - In: Paris

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Christophe Lemaire’s new spring collection was all about straight cuts and sharp silhouettes. Loosely fitted chinos were matched with crisp collarless shirts and single-breasted suit jackets, while long A-shaped skirts were combined with wrapped halter neck tops. The sober monochrome palette and minimalistic styling, gave the collection an impression of savvy simplicity and masculine elegance. With their functional cuts and simple materials, some of the looks also hinted at traditional women’s work wear, evoking the clothing of female pioneers. A wide, well-cut cape resembled the one worn by Florence Nightingale, the founder of modern nursery, while a short black bomber and a sleek, belted jumpsuit made you think of Amelia Earhart, the first ever female pilot.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

PFW DAY I/RECAP

13/09/25 - 07:00 - In: Paris

PFW DAY 12

The end of Milan Fashion Week means the beginning of Paris Fashion Week. The most extensive of the fashion weeks, Paris Fashion Week is without doubt also the most exciting one. The first day saw shows by amongst others Cédric Charlier, Anthony Vaccarello, and Julien David. These are some of the highlights.

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With the notion of protection as one of his main reference points, Cédric Charlier’s spring show invoked the seeming paradox of ”martial seduction”. Taking inspiration from garments worn for martial arts, the models came down the runway dressed in side-tide belted jackets and cropped baggy pants, with high leather shoes clutching their calves. Also the sleek, sequined pieces of the latter part of the show hinted at the notion of protection, reminiscent of the shells of beetles and insects. Known for his precise cuts and sharp tailoring, the collection featured smartly wrapped and layered looks, evoking a sense of simple, sporty elegance, echoed in the sober monochrome palette and tidy striped patterns.

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“Trendy is the last stage before tacky”, the designer Karl Lagerfeld once famously said. The same goes for Anthony Vaccarello’s spring show. Miniskirts with triangular-shaped hems, deep v-neck lined tops, torn see-through dresses, and tie-dye bleached jeans matched with fishnet tops and red lacquer high-heeled sandals all hinted at a tacky, trashy-chic aesthetic, though the collection was rendered with a fresh and innovative edge. Sporty, sexy, and smart, it aimed at a generation of young, savvy women, lead by the controversial and oh so cool Miley Cyrus.

PFW DAY 13

With inspiration from the seven seas, Julien David showed an experimental and playful spring collection, rendered with humour and wit. Paper-bag waisted shorts, long hooded sweatshirts, and printed parkas jackets all evoked a youthful sportiness, while dapper blouses, neat jackets, and brocade pants added a touch of ladylike elegance. David’s references to the seven oceans came through in the shiny, holographic polyurethane and the dotted open-weave nylon, as well as the peculiar coral and lifebuoy prints.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

MFW DAY VI/RECAP

13/09/24 - 02:00 - In: Milan

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On Monday, Milan Fashion Week came to a close with shows by amongst others Giorgio Armani and Gianfranco Ferré. 

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“A woman who’s free to fly but can carry her own weight, gentle but gutsy” was what Giorgio Armani had in mind for his delicately dramatic SS14 collection. The gentleness of the collection was manifested in slim and sophisticated suit jackets, dress shorts and pencil skirts, while the gutsiness came forward in billowing silk skirts and sheer chiffon dresses, the loose silhouettes enhanced by blurry floral prints reminiscent of diluted watercolour paintings. The colours ranged from neutral shades of grey and beige to dusty pink, sky blue, and deep fuchsia. The dramatic draping and exquisite prints added an artistic edge to the collection, most notably when three models walked down side by side dressed in draped chiffon and enormous square-cut hats.

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A long, sculptural, high slit skirt in creamy beige leather, matched with a square bra top, made a strong start for Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron’s Gianfranco Ferré spring show. The sculptural silhouettes recurred throughout the collection, as well as asymmetrical cuts, expressive draping, and narrow waists marked by broad leather belts. The sober palette of grey, nude, black, and white, was punctuated by splashes of silver, pea green, and midnight blue. With their innovative cuts, intriguing silhouettes, and sharp eye for details, Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron’ collection was nothing but a pleasure to the eye and a stunning finale for the fashion week.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

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