The fifth day of Milan Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Marni, Missoni, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Here are some of the highlights.
With her sharp eye for striking silhouettes and unmistakable sense of effortless elegance, Marni’s founder and head designer Consuelo Castiglioni showed an exquisitly versatile collection for SS14. In its entirety, the collection gave the impression of a sumptuous holiday to the Italian riviera, where the days are spent strolling down the cobbled street in flowy wide legged pants, belted suit jackets, and geometric jewelleries, topped with a peaked cap and platform flip flops, just to slip into an extravagant, shimmering, ruffled dress for the evening cocktails. The blown up floral prints and exquisite ruffles gave the collection an air of sugary femininity, while the crisp cuts and sleek silhouettes added a sophisticated an sporty edge to it.
Missoni’s SS14 collection was all about prints and patterns. Waves, birds, mountains, stripes, and letters had all been turned into distinctive graphic patterns. The silhouettes were mostly sleek and simple, loosened up with intriguing draping and folds. The palette ranged from mint green and turquoise, via lavender to pale pink, bright orange and wine red. Though some of the bold colour combination were surprisingly striking, the best looks were the ones rendered in simple black, white, and beige, allowing the textures and structures of the garments to shine forward.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring show was filled to the brim with new takes on classic pieces. The pinstripe suit, the pleated skirt, the trenchcoat, and the bomber had all found their way into the collection, updated with unexpected materials and deconstructed cuts. Rendered in a sober palette of white, nudes, olive green, and midnight blue, the collection gave an elegant and sophisticated impression, yet rendered with a seductive and sporty edge.
Fausto Puglisi’s show was an eclectic mix of tropical kitsch, punk, and ladylike simplicity. High slit dresses, palm tree prints, and leather strap bra tops, were combined with sober shirt dresses and printed skater skirts. Fausto Puglisi himself described his label’s first full runway outing as a meeting between Carolina Herrera and Axl Rose, which sums it up pretty well.
Photos courtesy Style.com
By Sonja Nettelbladt