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8:00 pm - 23/09/2013

MFW DAY V/RECAP

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The fifth day of Milan Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Marni, Missoni, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Here are some of the highlights. 

Marni

With her sharp eye for striking silhouettes and unmistakable sense of effortless elegance, Marni’s founder and head designer Consuelo Castiglioni showed an exquisitly versatile collection for SS14. In its entirety, the collection gave the impression of a sumptuous holiday to the Italian riviera, where the days are spent strolling down the cobbled street in flowy wide legged pants, belted suit jackets, and geometric jewelleries, topped with a peaked cap and platform flip flops, just to slip into an extravagant, shimmering, ruffled dress for the evening cocktails. The blown up floral prints and exquisite ruffles gave the collection an air of sugary femininity, while the crisp cuts and sleek silhouettes added a sophisticated an sporty edge to it.

Missoni

Missoni’s SS14 collection was all about prints and patterns. Waves, birds, mountains, stripes, and letters had all been turned into distinctive graphic patterns. The silhouettes were mostly sleek and simple, loosened up with intriguing draping and folds. The palette ranged from mint green and turquoise, via lavender to pale pink, bright orange and wine red. Though some of the bold colour combination were surprisingly striking, the best looks were the ones rendered in simple black, white, and beige, allowing the textures and structures of the garments to shine forward.

Salvan

Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring show was filled to the brim with new takes on classic pieces. The pinstripe suit, the pleated skirt, the trenchcoat, and the bomber had all found their way into the collection, updated with unexpected materials and deconstructed cuts. Rendered in a sober palette of white, nudes, olive green, and midnight blue, the collection gave an elegant and sophisticated impression, yet rendered with a seductive and sporty edge.

FL

Fausto Puglisi’s show was an eclectic mix of tropical kitsch, punk, and ladylike simplicity. High slit dresses, palm tree prints, and leather strap bra tops, were combined with sober shirt dresses and printed skater skirts. Fausto Puglisi himself described his label’s first full runway outing as a meeting between Carolina Herrera and Axl Rose, which sums it up pretty well.

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Photos courtesy Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

6:00 pm - 23/09/2013

DOLCE & GABBANA SS14/MFW

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To Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Sicily has proved to be a bottomless source of inspiration. The antique references visible in their men’s collection showed earlier this summer, returned in yesterday’s show as well. Tops and dresses were printed with old photographs of ruined temples and amphitheaters, the heels of some shoes were shaped like ionic columns, and blown up golden coins were used as belt buckles. The collection also featured sugary blossom prints, as well as classic black lace and simple polka dots. The silhouettes went from short and boxy to long and sweeping, with tunics, skirts, and dresses as some of the most dominant pieces. Eclectic and extravagant in its appeal, Dolce and Gabbana had managed to render it with sheer finesse and exquisite workmanship. An impressive achievement, considering the duo’s turbulent summer.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

 

8:00 pm - 22/09/2013

MFW DAY IIII/RECAP

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The fourth day of Milan Fashion week began with the dramatic silhouettes of Bottega Veneta and ended with a magnificent trip down Moshino’s memory lane.

Bottega

Bottega Veneta’s spring show was one of dramatic silhouettes, expressive volumes, and exquisite tailoring. Ruffles, drapings, fringes, frills, folds, and beads embellished the otherwise crisp and well-cut looks. One-shoulder dresses and skirts of differents lenghts were matched with short-sleeved shirts, suit jackets, and simple, ladylike handbags, belts, and pointy pumps. With black as the prominent colour, the collection also featured sultry hues of wine red midnight blue, khaki beige, and emerald green.

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The Roberto Cavalli show was an eclectic mix of influences, colours, materials, and shapes. Fringes, beads, and fur tufts, gave the collection a distinct air of bohemian folklore, while the sweeping shapes and shimmering materials added a touch of glamour and luxury. The colours were mostly black, white, or faded pastel hues of pink, blue, and green, interspersed with gleaming gold and silver.

Pucci

Influences from sports- and street wear were seamlessly juxtaposed with bohemian folklore at Emilio Pucci’s spring show. Long dresses came in beaded basketball mesh and scuba dive dresses came in multicoloured sequins. A black net tops were matched with Masai embroidered mini skirts and a printed parachute silk parkas were matched with a heavy buckled belt. It was a show oozing of cool glamour as well as edgy attitude.

Moschino

Moschino’s thirtieth anniversary show was a magnificent trip down memory lane. Starting with a video montage of the late Franco Moschino, the show kicked off with former supermodels Pat Cleveland, Violetta Sanchez, Amalia Vairelli, and Gisele Zelany, dressed in iconic Moschino pieces such as the cow dress and the teddy bear hat. The actual SS14 collection was just as spectacular, the models coming down the runway two by two, one representing good and the other one evil, sometimes explicitly stated by their belts saying GOOD GIRL or BAD GIRL. The show ended with yet another few classic Moschino looks, including the bag dress and the news paper suit.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

6:00 pm - 22/09/2013

JIL SANDER SS14/MFW

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The powerful beauty of random assemblage was apparently the recurring theme of Jil Sander’s spring show. And there was definitely a sense of assemblage to the collection, though it was rendered with Jil Sander’s usual eye for effortless elegance and sophisticated minimalism. The silhouettes were slim and sleek, with cropped tops and pants, belted dresses, and sweeping coats as some of the key looks. With black and white as the base colours, the collection was punctuated by splashes of silver, mineral green, and pale yellow, as well as a few multicoloured patterns, inspired by the Arte Povera artist Alighiero Boetti. Embellished with black and white feathers, the closing look also added a touch of glamour to the show.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

7:00 pm - 21/09/2013

MFW DAY III/RECAP

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The third day of the Milan Fashion Week saw shows by amongst others Emporio Armani, Sportmax, Tod’s, and Versace. These are some of the highlights. 

Armani

With nearly a hundred look, Emporio Armani showed the so far most extensive collection of Milan Fashion Week. Most of the looks came out on the runway two or three times in different colours, which made it to a coherent, bur rather tiresome show. Wide legged, cropped trousers, flowy suit jackets, and empire waist slip dresses were some of the key looks, coming in colours such as of crispy white, mint green, pale pink, and light blue. The pastel palette in combination with loose silhouettes and subtile floral prints gave the collection a feminine and romantic impression, but the sharp tailoring and crisp materials added an air of sophisticated elegance.

Sportmax

The recurring theme of Sportmax’ spring collection was the polka dot. Either blown up or gathered into all-over prints, the dots could be seen on everything from heavy knitted sweaters to billowing slip dresses to boxy tops. The collection also featured a couple of fantastic double, faced suede coats, strapless, draped dresses, and long pencil skirts. Towards the end of the show, Sportmax also lived up to their name when showing some truly sporty looks in sheer black net.

Versace

The Versace show was as expected an eclectic mix of kitschy elegance and trashy chic. High slit skirts, low waist, skin-tight trousers, and short dresses held together by straps and cahins were some of the collection’s key looks. In general, the show was high on metals, with chains, studs, hooks, and heavy belts interspersed in the collection. With black and white as the main colours, the collection also featured splashes of pastel purple and icy blue, as well as multicolour prints.

Trussardi

This week, Gaia Trussardi made her debut as head designer at the fashion house that bears her name, replacing Umit Benan that left the brand earlier this year. With inspiration by a road trip through the endless deserts of the US, Trussardi presented a smart and stylish take on classic menswear, such as suit jackets, cowboy hats, and bombers. With leather as the most prominent material, the collection featured wide leather trousers and shorts, leather suit jackets, and bra tops, matched with sharply tailored suits, sheer snake print skirts, and white cowboy hats. Oozing of effortless coolness and edgy attitude, the collection made a strong start for the new designer.

Tods

Leather was also the recurring theme at Tod’s spring show. The fashion house’s creative director Alessandra Facchinetti said that she wanted to treat leather as cotton, and the laser-cut tops, draped one-shouldes dresses, and slim pencil skirts in shiny, papery leather that was sent down the runway proved that she had suceeded. The eclectic, yet coherent collection also featured well-cut suits in icy blue and deep red, flowy shirt dresses, boxy cots, and a wonderful version of the house’s notorious loafer with long fringes.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

 

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