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6:30 pm - 20/09/2013

MFW DAY II/RECAP

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The second day of Milan Fashion Week saw the return of Costume National’s Ennio Capasa, a glimpse into the future of Fendi, and a much talked about show by Prada

MaxMara

Monochrome was the recurring theme of Max Mara’s spring collection. With a palette of pearly greys and beige nudes, interspersed with splashes of Klein blue, fuchsia, bright orange and green, the collection was consistently monochrome. Juxtaposing raw textures such as linen, canvas, and crinkled synthetics, with sleek silk and shimmering Lurex, the collection radiated a sophisticated and timeless elegance. The silhouettes were soft and slim with loose tops tucked into over the knee pencil skirts, slip dresses, jumpsuits, and flowy, hooded ponchos as some of the key looks.

Fendi

Inspired by the world of informatics, Karl Lagerfeld showed a sophisticated and futuristic spring collection for Fendi. With a sharp eye for details and a taste for advanced fabric technologies, he matched sheerly layered organza skirts with long laser-cut fur coats and short leather jackets. Set against a backdrop of a running waterfall, the collection gave an intriguing glimpse into the future of Fendi.

Cavalli

Just Cavalli’s SS14 collection was an explosion of bold colours, mismatched prints, and bared waists. With his signature animal and floral prints juxtaposed with tartan checks, the collection gave an impression of a young, punk girl on vacation to the tropics. Skin-tight trousers, cropped tops, and flowy slip dresses were matched with laser-cut leather jackets and printed bomber jackets. To sum up, it was just as eclectic and hedonistic as one expects from Roberto Cavalli.

Costume

This week, Italian designer Ennio Capasa returned to Milan for the first time in over twenty years to show his SS14 collection for Costume National. With deconstruction as its main theme, Ennio Capasa showed his elegantly experimental collection in an ‘under construction’ building in Milan. Entitled De-Construct-Re-Construct, the collection was characterized by sharply tailored silhouettes and asymmetrical cuts, featuring sleeveless suit jackets, high slit skirts, and sheer, see-through blouses.

LUX_0318.450x675

Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

4:00 pm - 20/09/2013

PRADA SS14/MFW

Prada

In the midst of sugary floral prints and slinky evening dresses, Prada’s SS14 show came like a breath of fresh air. Known for her strong political standpoint, Miuccia Prada had created a collection set to blur the lines between power and femininity. In collaboration with a number of muralists and illustrators, the venue was decorated with bold wall paintings, some of which also had found their way into the collection. Set to music by MIA and Britney Spears, the collection presented a stunning take on riot grrrl feminism. Radiating a sophisticated kick ass attitude, the collection featured beaded bras, sleek dresses, and multicoloured fur coats, matched with tube socks and sporty sandals. Last came a black cocktail dress embellished with a beaded rainbow – a stylish hommage to the LGBT rights movement.

Prada2

Photo courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

8:00 pm - 19/09/2013

MFW DAY I/RECAP

Gucci

Wednesday saw the opening day of Milan Fashion Week, the latest stop on the fashion week tour. Home to some of the most prestigious fashion houses, Milan Fashion Week is doubtlessly one of the most important fashion weeks, along with New York, London, and Paris. The first day presented an eclectic mix of shows, with everything from extravagant bathing suits to sophisticated tracksuits and elegant power dressing.

MFW DAY I5

Dsquared² showed a collection of timeless, elegant, and ladylike pieces, rendered to the extreme. With their daring dresses, enormous straw hats, and extravagant bathing suits, the whole collection gave an impression of a decent cocktail party gone wild. Eclectic in their choice of colours and materials, Dsquared² presented a bold and playful collection for an extravagant summer.

MFW DAY I7

Sportswear has had a strong influence of fashion for quite some time now. Yet, few have embraced it with such luxurious elegance as Gucci did with their collection for SS14. With loose silhouettes, mesh tops, tracksuits, and triangle bras, Gucci’s head designer Frida Giannini had clearly picked up elements from street- and sportswear, but reworked them into a smart and sophisticated collection. What looked like a mesh T-shirt was in fact laser-cut suede, and the zipped tracksuit was rendered in a sheer material with bold prints. The palette was dominated by black, in combination with a range of warm hues, from deep plum to shimmering bronze and apricot.

MFW DAY I4

Alberta Ferretti’s collection for SS14 was an explosion of billowing silhouettes and bold colours, presented against a backdrop of shifting sunset shades. In tandem with the delicately sheer materials, the collection gave a distinctly sensual and highly feminine impression. With their exquisite craftsmanship, multicoloured floral prints, and sinuous ribbons, the collection also hinted on folklore. Dominated by black and white, the collection was punctuated by bright red, orange, blue, and green, often combined into floral and striped patterns.

MFW DAY I6

As head designer for No. 21, Alessandro Dell’Acqua has made himself known for blurring the boundaries between womenswear and menswear, and the collection for SS14 was no exception. With pencil skirts, double breasted suit jackets, and shirt dresses, in tandem with laser-cut floral patterns, bead embroidery, and sheer see-through materials, the collection presented a new and fresh take on female power dressing. One of the most striking pieces was a short-sleeved leather suit jacket, elegantly matched with a slim, bead embroidered skirt.

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Photos courtesy of Style.com

By Sonja Nettelbladt

12:24 pm - 19/09/2013

Racism on the Runway

Zac Posen - Front Row - Spring 2013 Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

Photo courtesy of Huffington Post

Naomi Capmbell is fighting a hard battle trying to address the issue of racism on the runway. This interview below is just another proof that many does not see it as an issue it at all, and Naomi does a good job with explaining why something needs to be done: “No matter the intention, the result is racism” says the supermodel of the lack of colored or asian girls chosen to walk the shows. Alarmingly 82.7% models doing the fashion weeks are caucasian or white.

6:00 pm - 17/09/2013

Tom Ford SS14/LFW

Skärmavbild 2013-09-17 kl. 13.55.16

There was no sign of this being a spring&summer collection (not that we mind) and goth was our first association thinking of a theme.We saw some pieces – incredible delicate – that almost looked like they were made of spiderweb. Mosaics and disco was another reference, almost as dark as the first one, it is much more complex than that though. All of the pieces look like they take an hour to put on and are everything but effortless, but there is also something so cool about these pieces, perhaps mainly the androgynous vibes in even the most feminine and sexy dresses, that makes them so intriguing.

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