Ann Demeulemeeester continues on the path of poetry for her autumn/winter collection, presenting an array of black and white layers. Instead of looking at other sources for inspiration, she turned to herself to become the protagonist of the collection, meaning she would only create pieces she favors herself. And certainly, it was all there, the asymmetrical orchestral jacket, disordered layers of silk and wool, lace up boots and details such as feathers and leather belts. A poem we recall from previous experience, and sometimes, it is just nice to stop the clock for a while and enjoy a moment of beauty.
See the complete collection on Style.com.
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By Josefin Arestav
It is more than reducing to call this a ready-to-wear collection, it is simply put, casual couture. But there is also a simplicity to the pieces that is almost touching, only with a couple of colorful details made of Warhols early drawings. Other than that the collection was mostly monochrome with black and white. The two patterns present was mostly dogtooth and also some beautiful creations of decorative flowering. The materials seem light and make the silhouette moving and a bit magical.
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Photos courtesy of Style.com
By Simone Brenemark Molvidson
Somebody screamed Balmania last year, but it would be even more appropriate now I would say. The designer has lost it, gone to far… It feels like this collection is made with a masquearde in mind, and you are supposed to dress as David Bowie, or perhaps Aladdin. The harem pants would flatter nobody except maybe the supermodels walking the show. But, and there is a big but here: As we take a closer look, it does become visible how brilliant some of the pieces are. The detailing with an overload of bling and embellishments are spectacular to say the least. And the silhouette is as it should be, bombastic, big and bold. Maybe It´s just me, maybe I can´t handle it. These clothes are really over the top and exaggerated to the max, but that is also what Balmain is all about.
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Photos courtesy of Style.com
By Simone Brenemark Molvidson
From a brand most known for their fantastic evening gowns, this was a surprisingly two-parted collection. As a result Nina Riccis new pieces seem more wearable than ever, allthough the brand has not lost it´s sence of unreachable luxury. Many parts of the collection have a resemblance towards dancers, or more precisely ballerinas, with nude color choices, ruffed cuffs and sweatshirts. On the other side this was not a girlish collection, instead it was something for the more powerful and grown up woman. The attitude is definetely in the bold red colors, the 50s silhouette and the casual approach that was visible through the models posture and a slight tilted angle on some of the tops.
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Photos courtesy of Style.com
By Simone Brenemark Molvidson
Gareth Pugh found inspiration from the tribe Asgarda for the autumn/winter collection, composed by women who reside in the Carpathian Mountains and calling themselves the ”Amazons of Ukraine’ with the purpose of seeking complete autonomy from men. Opening with a high collored long and white dress embroided to resemble branches, it was almost like a mocking with the idea of a maiden. The collection then followed as an array of long costume dresses flooded in romantisism, as taken directly from a Tim Burton goth movie. The idea was strong women obviously, but instead of making it typically masculine, Gareth Pugh used the most significant female features of clothing to create a pompous and extravagant look that probably is more haute couture than ready-to-wear. But who cares. Gareth Pugh likes to put on a show, and so he did, making it up for last season’s lacking of the usual raw edge his design has become known for.
