Picture via Vogue.com, see the complete collection here.
Exploring with the masculine silhouette last season, Haider Ackermann went back to a more curvy sleek silhouette: narrow in the waist however dramatic and large at top and bottom. Instead of boxy draping, he went back to experimenting with wrapping effects that he earlier mastered so well. Monochromic garments, sometimes looks seen in sullen, moody hues, combined in a certain way that it resembled of an October tree. Also dark hues of cobalt blue as well as lilac and green were seen in the collection.
This was yet another beautiful, almost poetic collection from Ackermann, models walking in slow motion with tunes of Frank Sinatra playing in the background.
Fire burst out as the first model appeared from the dark. It was a greyish, long silhouette sweeping down the runaway, followed by fifteen similar but with slight changes. It continued on to black leather and then softer hues of brown and peach cropped shearling jacket. All looks were accomplished with a deconstructive cap, covering the pale face with a red lip peering through. As the show went on, the handcraft was evolving with architectual, layered silhouettes with different textures almost patched together in a collage kind of way. Silk, leather, bouclé and wool. It was interesting and somewhat odd, seeing checked table cloth with wool in rounded shapes, looking completely like it belonged to the aestethics of Rick Owens. The set, the mood with the very bizarre soundtrack “Ima read” made it all feel so brutal, destructive even. The clothing however, appeared as even more beautiful and sleek to the contrasting surroundings.
Gareth Pugh starting the show with a rain of circled shaped confetti, followed by Joan Smalls opening the show wearing a black fux fur creation and a large head piece. Resembling of a beautiful bird. As the show continued, the references to birds were becoming more visible. But not just any bird, is was the the Bald Eagle, spreading it wings resulting in look 33, a short grey dress with a long dramatic trail in the back. More fur came down the runway, shaped into both skirts and jackets, evolving into advanced shredding made of fabrics such as wool and leather. His signature pieces, the asymetrical leather jacket, the wide skirted coat, both in leather, created a good balance between new and old. Everything in the very same hues, black and dark grey.
Unfortunately however, there were plenty use of fabrics including cotton and satin, which may not have been the best possible choice, as they often come out as rather unflattering regardless of its impeccable construction. No, this may have not been Gareth Pugh’s strongest collection in the bunch, but at least he kept on to his conceptual design and didn’t go mainstream, pleasing everybody, often seen as a result to ones success.
My sister Eva makes fun of me sometimes, and tells me that I can criticize designers like Prada, Marc Jacobs or Acne. Everything they touch turn to gold, which is true in some ways. But lately I have realized how disappointed I can get, even on my favorites. Phoebe Philo’s first collection for Céline a couple of seasons ago made everybody cheer, I also did. But this time, her latest spring collection, felt a bit boring. I can’t think of any other designer that people are having so high expectations for. With her fans on front row, like Kanye West, I guess she feeling it. Phoebe Philo’s collection for Céline spring and summer 2012 has boxy silhouettes, nurse uniforms, small collars and really heavy shoes. Of course there are some details that will definitely be next seasons it-pieces, like the flared, slim pants, the big belts and the pieces in leather, but my opinion of the whole collection is that it wasn’t that great.
Min syster Eva driver med mig ibland om att jag inte kan säga något illa om att design skapat av Prada, Marc Jacobs eller Acne. Att allt de rör vid blir till guld, vilket är delvis sant. Men på sistone har jag insett hur besviken man kan bli, även på sina favoriter. Phoebe Philos första kollektion för Céline för några säsonger sedan fick allas hjärtan att slå några extra slag, även mitt. Men den här gången, hennes senaste vårkollektion, känns det lite tråkigt. Jag kan inte tänka mig en annan designer som folk har så höga förväntningar på. Med hennes största fans på front row, som Kanye West, måste hon nog känna av det. Phoebe Philos kollektion för Céline vår- och sommar 2012 består boxiga siluetter, sjuksköterska-uniformer, små kragar och riktigt klumpiga skor. Det är klart att det fanns en del detaljer som garanterat kommer att bli nästa säsongs it-plagg, som de utsvängda, smala byxorna, de stora skärpen och plaggen i läder, men kollektionen i dess helhet var inte särskilt rolig.